As a Cantonese saying goes, "When the autumn wind blows, it's time for cured meats." Along with cozying up in a warm jacket, it's the perfect season to treat yourself to a steaming pot of rice, enhanced by the rich, savory-sweet flavors of Cantonese cured sausages and meats.
"When the autumn wind blows, it's time for cured meats." (Poster: Nanfang Plus)
The origins of Cantonese cured meats
Curing meat is an ancient practice, born out of necessity. Before modern preservation techniques, people used salting and air-drying to store surplus meat, not only extending its shelf life but also creating the distinctive flavors of cured meats.
In the once-remote Lingnan region, the love for cured meats was evident. Historical records can date back over a thousand years to the Song Dynasty.
The Cantonese cured sausage as we know it today is believed to have originated in Huangpu Town, Zhongshan.
In 1886, a porridge vendor named Wang Liansheng (or Wang Hong, according to some accounts) repurposed leftover meat trimmings by seasoning them with sugar and alcohol, stuffing them into casings, and air-drying them in a roast pig oven. This innovative dish quickly gained popularity, eventually evolving into a local industry. By the mid-20th century, Cantonese cured meats had become renowned across China.
Crafting the perfect cured sausages
Illustrations of cured sausages' production process (Image: Yushan Lawei)
Modern production methods vary, but the essence of Cantonese cured sausage remains rooted in tradition. Pork leg or pork fat is minced and seasoned with a mixture of salt, sugar, soy sauce, and alcohol—each family or factory adding their unique touch, from rose wine to Shaoxing wine.
Traditional sausage filling tool in Dongguan (Photo: Nanfang Plus)
The meat is stuffed into natural casings, which are tied tightly to ensure an even, compact filling. The process often involves puncturing the sausage with needles to release trapped air. During Guangdong's autumn, the ample sunlight and flowing breezes provide ideal conditions for curing, turning streets and rooftops across the Pearl River Delta into vivid displays of hanging cured meats.
Cured meats hanging on the fence in Jiangmen (Photo: Nanfang Plus)
While traditional methods prevail, many modern factories apply precise climate-controlled ovens to produce cured meats year-round, ensuring consistency in quality and flavor.
Cured sausage production workshop in the modern factories (Photo: Nanfang Plus)
Cured meats in the Pearl River Delta
Cantonese cured meats differ from their spicier Sichuan counterparts. With a delicate balance of sweetness, saltiness, and a faint hint of alcohol, these meats deliver a refined taste that pairs well with a variety of dishes.
From classic brands like Guangzhou Restaurant to regional specialties in Dongguan, Foshan, and Zhongshan, each city in the Pearl River Delta offers its unique take on cured delicacies:
Dongguan: Known for its short "bite-sized" sausages, particularly the "date sausage" of Houjie Town.
"Bite-sized" sausages in Dongguan's Chashan (Image: CCTV 17)
Zhuhai: The famed "Hengshan Duck Bundle" combines duck wings, liver, and cured pork, tied with duck intestines for a crunchy twist.
Duck Bundle in Zhuhai (Photo: Nanfang Plus)
Foshan: The "Four Treasures of Cured Meats" from Lubao include rich, fatty fish, sausages, meats, and ducks.
Cured fish in Lubao (Photo: Sanshui Publicity)
Zhongshan: As the birthplace of Cantonese cured meats, Huangpu Town continues to lead with its iconic sausages and an annual festival celebrating this heritage.
Traditional Huangpu cured sausage-making procedure showcased at an exhibition (Photo: Lei Haiquan / Nanfang Plus)
Jiangmen: Renowned for its skilled artisans, Jiangmen's Liyue has exported its expertise far and wide. Cured duck is also a specialty at Jiangmen's Xinhui and Enping.
Sun-cured ducks in Xinhui's Sanshui (Photo: Xinhui Fabu)
How to enjoy Cantonese cured meats
Cantonese cured meats are as versatile as they are delicious. Here are a few classic dishes to try:
Clay Pot Rice with Cured Meats at Jiangmen's Chikan (Photo: Ye Zhiqing / Nanfang Plus)
Clay Pot Rice with Cured Meats: A staple of Cantonese cuisine, where cured sausage or cured duck is steamed with rice to create a rich, smoky aroma. The secret lies in achieving the perfect crispy rice crust.
Stir-Fried Vegetables with Cured Sausage: A harmonious balance of salty and fresh, this dish pairs cured sausage with greens like Chinese broccoli or celery.
Turnip Cake: A dim sum classic, enhanced by the addition of finely chopped cured sausage.
Cured Sausage Rolls: Nicknamed the "Cantonese hot dog," this popular dim sum item wraps sections of cured sausage in soft, pillowy dough, which is then steamed to perfection.
As the autumn winds sweep through Guangdong, there's no better time to embrace the comforting flavors of Cantonese cured meats. Whether enjoyed at a bustling dim sum restaurant or prepared in your own kitchen, these delicacies are sure to warm your heart and satisfy your taste buds.
What's your favorite Cantonese cured meat dish? Let us know and join in the autumn feast!
Author | Chen Longyan, Huang Xinying
Poster | Lai Meiya
Editor | Liu Lingzhi, James, Shen He
