Jessica and her husband Ming Jie spend Spring Festival at Ming's hometown in Zhanjiang city, South China's Guangdong province. [Photo provided by Jessica to chinadaily.com.cn]
"Jia Mu-eh!" my husband's mother shouts loudly from the outdoor kitchen. "Jia Mu-eh" means having dinner in the dialect of my husband's hometown in Zhanjiang city, South China's Guangdong province. This is the only phrase I know. Thankfully though, most of his relatives can speak Mandarin, so communicating with them is not a big issue. The only ones who cannot understand me are his little cousins. They won't start studying Mandarin until they enter kindergarten. My husband's English is better than my Chinese, so he's my personal translator when I can't speak what I want to say.
This is my fourth time visiting his hometown and the first time as his wife. We got our marriage license last year, a day before we went back to Beijing so there wasn't much time for celebration besides a shot of baijiu and congratulations all around.
Typically, my husband and I will take the "slow" train from Beijing, where we live, to Zhanjiang. A 37-hour trip in a sleeper car. Due to work this year, we had to travel separately, him leaving a week before me. He, once again, rode the train and I, for the first time, flew there. For me, four hours was much more tolerable than 37. Landing on the tiny runway at the airport in Zhanjiang was the start of my holiday.
Jessica helps with the hens at her husband's home in Zhanjiang city, South China's Guangdong province, earlier this month. [Photo provided by Jessica to chinadaily.com.cn]
Getting off the plane and feeling that warm and breezy fresh air hit my face was enough to make me want to stay for a few months. I was so run down and tired of Beijing's cold and dry weather. What a difference four hours can make! My husband greeted me at the airport and while we waited at the bus stop, we had a few black taxis come over and ask if we wanted a ride. This was after my husband told them I was his wife. "WA!" followed by a long rambling of local dialect was the response. A small bus, about half of the size of a bus in Beijing, pulled up and we got on.
We have to spend one hour traveling to a place called Dong Hai Dao. This is where his parents live. It's a small fishing village about one hour outside of Zhanjiang. The road is full of twists, turns, bumps, and tall buildings under construction. Signs pointing to nearby villages line the road. Our bus has to slow down in order to let the cow cross the road. After battling a bout of motion sickness, we arrive. Situated next to a small convenient store, their two story home looks shabby next to a fairly new apartment complex. The current house is about 17 years old and was built by hand by my husband's father and grandfather. A proud accomplishment that not many can claim. Later this year though, the house will be torn down and rebuilt.
Jessica sets off firecrackers at her husband's home in Zhanjiang city, South China's Guangdong province, during Spring Festival. [Photo provided by Jessica to chinadaily.com.cn]
As we walk in, we are greeted by my husband's brother, sister, and older cousin. Later, followed by his aunts and uncles. Many extended family members live in this place. I'd say more than 10 of his relatives live in the building. His mother and father were busy farming shrimp on the island they rent offshore. I would not see them until the following day. The house itself is quite lively. In Spring Festival tradition, everyone is reunited, back home safe and sound. There are no decorations or ornaments adorning the walls or door that would indicate it's Spring Festival however. The only thing you would notice is that there is a lot more incense burning in the living room.
Since it's my fourth year here, I'm quite familiar with the traditions of my husband's family and what should be done. Most days though, we stayed at home. I am in no way shape or form a good cook, but I'll do my best to help his sister or mom prepare some dishes for lunch or dinner. After eating, I was able to help my husband set off some firecrackers outside the house in order to keep the bad luck away. The house is in poor condition, but the happiness and love that fills the house can repair every crack and break in the foundation.
Jessica washes shrimps at her husband's home in Zhanjiang city, South China's Guangdong province, during Spring Festival. [Photo provided by Jessica to chinadaily.com.cn]
Now, this is a fishing village so every meal we eat typically consists of crab, oysters/clams, fish, or shrimp. I'm originally from a small town in the mid-west so I never grew up on seafood. I still can't get used to it. Everything is freshly caught off the island they farm. Most people would probably call me crazy for not eating as much as I could. Some of it I like, some I don't. Unfortunately, if I eat too much of it, I end up getting sick. My husband, on the other hand, is like a bottomless pit.
Over the next few days, we'll be quite busy. Each time we're home, we spend a lot of time on the island that the family farms. This island is known as "nan ping dao." It's about 10 kilometers round and uninhabited by people. The only people who go there are the farmers to fish or farm their shrimp pools. The island is full of wild goats, cows, chickens, and cats as well. There are a few shanties strewn across the island, used by farmers who work at night or need to have a rest and cook a meal.
Jessica and her husband, first from left, peel shrimp with family members at their home in Zhanjiang city, South China's Guangdong province. [Photo provided by Jessica to chinadaily.com.cn]
My husband and I will go there with his brother and sister to barbecue chicken and walk around, enjoying the fresh air and scenery. Strangely enough, you wouldn't believe how many shoes I've found walking along the beach. As we walk along the beach, my husband will take a shovel and net along with him so we can dig for sand crabs and oysters or clams. In the evening, we take our haul back to his parent's house and that's what we call dinner. Watching the sunset from the beach on that island, is a little tradition my husband and I share.
For family traditions on the eve of Spring Festival, my husband will set off firecrackers at midnight and the living room light must be left on all night. From Lunar New Year's Day to the Lantern Festival, my husband must burn incense in the living room and make offerings of rice and oranges.
Jessica shows off oysters caught at her husband's hometown in Zhanjiang city, South China's Guangdong province. [Photo provided by Jessica to chinadaily.com.cn]
The first day of the new year, my husband and I will go to his hometown's local temple to pray for a prosperous new year. Next, we'll travel to his ancestor's old home to pray again as well, followed by hanging the red scrolls across the top of the door and on the sides. Throughout the week, there will be large reunion dinners at different relatives' houses such as his maternal grandmother's house and cousin's home. Also, a large dinner is held here as well. More than 40 people attend every year. My husband comes from a big family. Fortunately, because of all the children in the family, we aren't pressured by any of the family to have kids.
As another Spring Festival comes to an end, we'll return to Beijing and get back to the daily grind. Before we left, we took some family photos. One photo involved my husband's grandparents, parents, brother and sister. As I stood off to the side and looked on, my husband extended his hand and said, "You're in the photo too." I said, "It's supposed to be just your family." He looked at me and said, "You are my family. We're a family." So, with that, my heart melted and I stood next to him as he held my waist for the photo.
Jessica and her husband trim vegetables at their home in Zhanjiang city, South China's Guangdong province. [Photo provided by Jessica to chinadaily.com.cn]
So, another Spring Festival has come and gone. I've grown closer with his family and truly am starting to feel that I can call his family, MY family and his home, MY home. I can't express how grateful I am for the hospitality his family has shown me over the past four years. I really feel like their daughter. I've lived in China for over six years now and I can say, without a doubt, Spring Festival is one of my favorite times of the year.
What affects me I guess is how poor everyone is yet they can still be happy. They don't care about the complicated trivial things outside of the village. Just care about living. We care so much about what's happening in the world and politics but those people they aren't even aware of what's going on or they don't care.
Jessica's husband Ming Jie holds a crab caught at his hometown in Zhanjiang city, South China's Guangdong province. [Photo provided by Jessica to chinadaily.com.cn]
Jessica and her husband have dumplings at their home in Zhanjiang city, South China's Guangdong province. [Photo provided by Jessica to chinadaily.com.cn]
New Year's Eve dinner at Jessica and her husband's home in Zhanjiang city, South China's Guangdong province. [Photo provided by Jessica to chinadaily.com.cn]
Jessica's husband's family members dine together at their home in Zhanjiang city, South China's Guangdong province. [Photo provided by Jessica to chinadaily.com.cn]
Jessica joins in a family photo. [Photo provided by Jessica to chinadaily.com.cn]