The placid atmosphere, simple lifestyle, stilted houses, picturesque mountains and a gentle girl called Cui Cui -- this is many visitors' impression of Fenghuang, a small ancient town by Tuojiang River, in western Hunan Province. Many people remember its name because of Cui Cui, a carefree, kind-hearted girl in a novel by Shen Congwen, a renowned Chinese writer. It is in the town of Fenghuang that Cui Cui was born and grew up.

Walking aimlessly in the morning, you will see Tuojiang River covered in mist, with houses on stilts rising out of the water. Fog shrouds the brown wooden pillars that support these houses, making them look as if they were floating. As you walk around the town, the lanes seem to wind endlessly. In certain places, it is difficult to see how the place has changed for hundreds of years.

Built in 686 B.C., the ancient town was formerly named Weiyang and was located in today's Huangsiqiao town, about 24 kilometers from present-day Fenghuang. The city moved to its present site around 700 years ago, and the majority of its inhabitants were soldiers, sent to quell Miao ethnic minority "riots" by the Ming Dynasty government. All the wooden buildings in the city were built by the Miao and Han people in the Qing Dynasty, about 360 years ago.

The traditional architecture has been kept intact, including the flagstone-paved streets and stilted houses on the banks of the river.

As an old Chinese town, the traditional architecture gives the place its special identity. With upturned eaves and corners, the stilted houses are connected by corridors on three sides. There are wooden balustrades protruding over the water. Usually, the stilted houses have two storeys, each with wooden floorboards. The roofs are decorated with designs such as two phoenixes worshipping the sun, lions playing with embroidered balls as well as flower and plant decorations. In the daytime, at the foot of the stilted houses, many women wash their clothes. The sound of the splashing water stirs up ripples on the river.

If you frequent the place, you will be able to walk among a stream of women carrying baskets on their backs, men leading cows, photographers shouldering tripods, and porters looking for business. They are quite different from one another, but they walk toward the same direction and at the same pace. They even have the same expression on their faces.

Roadside stalls offer silverware, dyed cloths, leather handicrafts, batik paintings and local delicacies. These places offer a visual feast with a wide variety of items hung on the walls. Young female travelers may have to spend more time in the old folk craft street after taking a look at the bulky bracelets and shiny, silver rings placed in the counters. They look at the things and bargain with the shopkeepers, creating a lot of laughter on the old town's tranquil streets.

When noon draws near, the small town is bustling. At this time, the openness and hospitality of the local people becomes apparent. In this town, the traditional coexists with the modern: Local tobacco pipes with decorative braids coexist with mobile phones; foreigners walk alongside Miao women who have their hair wrapped in long cloths; and hardworking women carve decorations on window frames while enjoying pop music.

When night falls, red lanterns are lit along the river. Local women remain washing clothes by the water's edge. They beat the clothes with sticks, the sound of which might make you recall your childhood. Boats pass between red lanterns, and oars break the moon's reflection on the water. Sitting at the front of the boat against the night wind, you will feel a gloomy but joyful air permeating the picturesque night scenery.

Travel tips
Visitors should travel first to Jishou, Hunan Province, by train, and then go to Fenghuang by bus.

Take train N702 at Shenzhen East Railway Station in Nanshan District, which leaves Shenzhen at 11:25 a.m. and arrives at Jishou at 7:34 a.m. the next day.

Fenghuang County is a place inhabited by ethnic minorities such as the Miao and Tujia, so it features strong ethnic charm.

Tourists can enjoy Miao customs by visiting Shanjiang Miao Village. If you are lucky, you may have the chance to experience the Miao's local fair in Alaying.

Tourists are recommended to stay in the stilted houses beside the river. One night costs 20 to 30 yuan per person. The hotel Home on the Tuojiang River is recommended. If you ask the hotel manager, he might take you on a night-time boat ride.

Fenghuang has many local snacks, of which sugar-coated ginger is a favorite among visitors.

Editor: Catherine