GETTING to the Gypsys proved to be a bit of a saga. The cabbie didn't know the address and Gypsys is tucked away opposite the Minhua Ship, so it took a bit of finding. Management assures that a new sign is going up soon to help poor unfortunates like myself, who get lost too easily.

Run by Dorian Chang with the help of his father Xavier, Gypsys opened in December 2002 and features an eclectic mix of cuisine that reflects the Australian experience. Just like Australian cuisine, the menu is influenced by all parts of the globe. Malaysian, Vietnamese, Chinese, Greek, French, Lebanese at and host of other dishes can all be found on the menu.

Chang saw an opening for an authentic modern Australian restaurant after working in and running several establishments both in Shenzhen and in Hong Kong. He landed in Hong Kong in 1994 and started his climb up the culinary rungs in 1996. He has experience in a broad range of styles, including Mexican, Italian and Continental. Importantly his foundations are in Hong Kong, where customers, both expatriates and local, have had experience in the best restaurants and are particularly demanding. Chang believes that Shenzhen is now ready for the same standards.

The food

Gypsys serves up delicious wood fired pizzas, grills, pasta and an assortment of side dishes and salads. Chang is a perfectionist in the kitchen, so all the pastas and sauces are made on site. The results make for exceptional eating.

On the night we partook in some fabulous signature dishes:

The Gypsy special ¡ª wood fired pizza

Comes with ham, onion, green pepper, black olives, pepperoni, sausage and pineapple.

Verdict: as good as pizza gets

Flame grilled baby backed ribs

Cooked in a secret sauce with a wasabi mash.

Verdict: succulent meat , a great dish.

Pavlova

No Australian cuisine would be complete without this little number

Verdict: a treat from Oz

Gypsys is starting a new menu on Monday. Diners can expect some exciting new dishes including the prawn crayfish laksa, Turkish mezza and pate supreme

Wine list

Among Gypsys's clientele are a number of expats and Chinese "bai ling" (white collars) who work in the oil and gas industry, which means frequent traveling to Western Australia. They have a very high-level knowledge of Western wines especially from the Margaret River region.

Gypsys's wine list reflects this. It is predominately an Australian wine list, but also has some standout wines from regions around the world.

Standout wines

Red

Leeuwin Estate cabernet merlot ¡ª Margaret River (WA)

Absolute class from the Margaret River Region and the world renowned boutique estate.

White

Le Rime Pinot Grigio ¡ª Tuscany Italy

A light deliciously refreshing wine perfect for sipping chilled in hot weather.

Ambience

For me, the most important part of any restaurant experience is the ambience of the place. You can tell straight away that Gypsy gets it right.

The staffs are attentive, but not shoulder huggers. Little things like the bill being left on the table are also really important. Too often I have been to "Western" style restaurants where the bill is screamed out and the waitress stands over while you get your money out. This doesn't happen at Gypsys and I really like that.

The clientele is a mix of expat and Chinese. Increasingly the Chinese guests have been educated or have lived overseas for extended periods of time. They know what a good restaurant delivers and they find it at Gypsys.

Why will I be back?

It's the little things that I liked most. The waitress brought over a glass of water with the wine, and the bill was dealt with discreetly and the entrees came first. The owners have trained their staff right.

The food is world class and the wine list is excellent.

If you are looking for an authentic modern dining experience with the best of Australia's multicultural cuisine, you'll find it at the Gypsys.

Exceptional service, Australian fusion cuisine, an excellent wine list and a relaxed, sophisticated ambience. Gypsys has raised the bar when it comes to dining out in Shekou.

 
Editor: Wings