The Cow and Bridge Thai restaurant on Shamian Island takes its name from a bustling business street in Bangkok, and owner Tina Meng plans to turn her two-restaurant business into a chain with locations in other mainland cities.

Cow and Bridge does authentic Thai food, but the dishes have adapted to fit the palates of Cantonese and western diners. The fiery curries have been toned down the menu includes popular mild dishes such as the fried mixed vegetables with coconut milk, grilled fish and their fillet of beef on an iron plate.

Dishes like the chicken in green curry paste with coconut milk and cashew and chicken fried with chili paste lack Thai cuisine's usual firepower; in fact, nothing on the table was particularly spicy. Diners are advised to ask for a spicier version of the menu items for a truer Thai taste. Meng's kitchen team can accommodate such requests.

To its credit, the restaurant's dishes are fresh and well-prepared. The cold "spicy & sour" appetizer features crispy pickled vegetables in a light dressing, and the spring rolls are filled to bursting with giant pieces of shrimp. The fried noodles Thai style (pad thai) arrive with fresh lime wedges (no small feat in Guangzhou), and both seafood and meats are fresh and lean.

Cow and Bridge is modern and well-lit, and its high-ceilinged dining area has a bright, open feel. Diners here will appreciate the hip atmosphere in one of the city's newest and trendiest spots.

Cow and Bridge also offers delivery service within the Shamian Island area during 11am-2pm and 5-9pm. The order needs to be above RMB 100. J. Makary

Cow and Bridge Thai Restaurant, 54 Sha Mian Da Jie. Daily 11am-3pm, 5-10.30pm (8185 8288)

Editor: Zhang Chunhua