|
It's easy to spend a few days in Qufu exploring the three major sights related to Confucius: the Confucius Mansions, where the sage and some 70 generations of his descendents once lived; the Confucius Temple; and the Confucius Cemetery, a forest cemetery where Confucius and many of his deceased clan members rest.
Qufu's history is directly linked to Confucius. Legend states that he was born in a cave 60km to the east of Qufu in 551BC, during the Spring and Autumn Period. Confucius settled in modern day Qufu, after years of unsuccessfully wandering through various kingdoms in hopes of influencing rulers to adopt his teachings. It was only after his death in 479 BC, that his ideas gained prominence.
|
Apricot Altar: where Confucius teaches his students
|
The mansion and temple areas were only open to the Confucius family and visiting emperors; it was forbidden ground for commoners. As a measure of how much prestige the Kong family held, they were given the right to make laws and pass ordinances in Qufu. Over time the Kong family's statue grew to the point where they were considered equal to the imperial family.
Over the years, the mansion and temple saw substantial expansions, turning the complex into a sprawling spectacle that occupies nearly 20 per cent of modern Qufu. |
Ming and Qing Dynasties architecture abound throughout the city, making strolls along Qufu's clean streets ascetically pleasing, as well as adding to the historic charm of the city. The architecture will transport you to another time. Buildings with beautiful red and yellow tiled roofs and striking pointed eaves greet the eye.
The main south gate marks the beginning of the temple. The square just beyond the gate features a bustling market packed with vendors selling vegetable pancakes and various trinkets, it makes you wonder how good of a bargainer Confucius was.
Upon entering the temple grounds, the noise of the market subsides and the tranquillity of the temple brings out the scholar in us all. Quiet courtyards are home to withered pines so old that they require support from metal poles. Numerous steles, honouring Confucius and his disciples, are found throughout the temple. Many of the steles, bearing dedications carved into the stone face, were dedicated by past emperors. Most of the steles are in the south and central portion of the temple, the steles are supported by a fabled creature akin to a tortoise. If you can't read Chinese, a highly-recommended booklet introducing the most important steles and buildings is available throughout the temple.
|
In the center of the temple is the Kuiwen Pavilion, the tallest and most prominent building in the temple. This ornately decorated three-storey hall is topped with a three-tiered tiled roof and gives some idea to the wealth and influence of the Kong family. The current pavilion dates to 1504; it was originally a library to store the Analects, a collection of Confucius's sayings, known popularly in the west as "Confucius says... |
Entertainment show: Confucius dream
|
In the northern section of the temple is the Apricot Altar, where it's said Confucius gave his erudite lectures to his disciples. The altar is one of the most important places in the Chinese cultural world. Chinese tourists will wait for up to 30 minutes to have their picture taken next to the famous sight.
Behind the altar is the Dacheng Hall, the main hall of the temple. The hall was originally higher than those in the Forbidden City and had to be lowered to avoid offending the emperor. Inside is a brightly painted statue of Confucius where people continue to pay their respects to the ancient sage. The solemn faces and deep bows are evidence of his continued influence; even in modern times his teachings remain relevant.
To the northeast of the temple is the maze-like Confucius mansion where Confucius and his descendants once lived, the present complex built during the Ming dynasty and expanded during the Qing dynasty. The temple's ornate decorations and grand scale is toned down in the mansion complex. The real charm of the mansion is in its beautifully decorated living quarters that offer a glimpse into the daily life of ancient Chinese aristocrats. The southern part of the mansion is the administrative area. This is where guests were greeted and official business conducted. The central area of the mansion is where the family once lived. While strolling through the narrow grey lanes, it's easy to imagine the voice of young Kongs reciting the words of their influential ancestor and the footsteps of hundreds of servants, who once served this privileged family, echoing off the walls.
The rearmost part of the mansion is a pleasant garden and pool, which must have inspired many descendants of the Sage while they contemplated his ancient wisdom. There is no need to rush through the temple and mansion; a half-day is more than enough.
A short 10-minute taxi ride or 20-minute walk to the north of the mansion will bring you to the Confucius cemetery, which is a park and cemetery. The walled cemetery is expansive, about two square kilometers. A good half-day will be required to see all of the tombs in this ancient forest. Even today, Confucius's descendants are buried here to rest alongside the illustrious teacher.
The quiet forest is sprinkled with pavilions, ceremonial archways and assorted trees-according to tradition; each of Confucius' disciples planted a tree from his native province. Shady trails lined with stern stone guardians allow for quiet strolls, it's in this forest where you really get a sense of timelessness. Confucius' tomb and those of his son and grandson lie near the main gate of the forest in the southern section. Near the sage's tomb is a hut where one of Confucius' disciples lived guarding his teacher's tomb. The rest of the Kong graves lie in a separate section of the forest. A quick bus tour that stops at some of the better-known tombs is available. For a slower pace, going by foot or bike is a better option. This way you can get away from the crowds and enjoy the tranquillity at your own speed.
Talking about souvenirs, name seals, ink stones and dragonhead canes are popular items in Qufu. The best places to buy these are at the entrances to the three major sights. Books of calligraphy copied from the different steles also make unique souvenirs. Other interesting items include canes with a carving of a dragon's head on the handle. They range from the extremely ornate and expensive to the simple and cheap. Be sure to bargain hard.
Editor: Wing
|
