IF you're looking for a long stretch of golden sand beach, Nan'ao is not the place. But the pleasant sea view, fresh air and, above all, the delicious seafood make Nan'ao a worthwhile day trip.

streamed sea urchin

Long before the Daya Bay nuclear power plant was built nearby, Nan'ao was a small fishing village in the early Qing Dynasty. The town in Longgang District has recently taken a new interest in promoting its ancient traditions. This May marked Nan'ao's second annual dragon boat festival races. The grass dragon dance is performed during the Spring Festival.

The Nan'ao seashore is mostly rocky, but a nice, small beach, property of Nan'ao Hotel, is open to the public free of charge.

Seafood, however, is much more attractive than the beach. Visitors can find more than 30 seafood restaurants along the shore. Each displays various sea creatures in front of the entrance. Offerings include lobster, shellfish, sea urchins, eels, crabs, prawns and many kinds of unidentified fish. If you ask the name of a creature, the restaurant owner would mumble something unintelligible with a strong local accent. Anyway, it's a joyful experience to choose seafood on the scene.

If you give the food a thumbs-up, you must give an A plus to the whole dining experience.

Each restaurant, facing directly onto the water, offers a pristine sea view. Expect to pay about 200 yuan (US$25) for a dinner for four with five or six dishes. Every restaurant has reserved a narrow alley leading directly past the kitchen to a world of sun-dried seafood. Diners can walk out of a restaurant's back door to the long street of the sun-dried seafood market.

Not just fish, along the street many stores sell handicrafts made of shells. You may even find coral for sale. If you want to take a picture, the storeowner will quickly stop you since it's illegal to sell coral. So you're advised not to buy coral as souvenirs. Best to stick to the shell handicrafts and, above all, the seafood.

Editor: Wing