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Year of the Rooster: Chinese Millenials are tired of luxury designers putting the zodiac animal on everything

The official start of the Year of the Rooster in the Chinese Zodiac begins on January 28th, and the fashion industry has been paying homage in a big way.

2017年1月28日,中国将正式迎来农历鸡年的新年。而时尚界已经开始大规模向鸡年致意。

Given it's the most lucrative time of year for designer brands to target Chinese consumers – one of the most significant forces in global luxury consumption - a surge in zodiac-themed items can be seen everywhere but, they’re facing immense criticism.

这是一年中时尚大牌瞄准中国消费者的最赚钱的时机,因此新出现的生肖主题商品随处可见,但它们也面临诸多批评之声。中国消费者是全球奢侈品消费中一股最显著的力量。

Cashing in on the demand for holiday gifts, these brands are thrusting cultural references upon wealthy Chinese shoppers. However, many of the country’s millennials consider them outdated.

这些品牌投资于节日礼物的市场需求,对富裕的中国购物者强力推出各种文化产品。然而中国很多千禧一代认为这些产品很过时。

Instead of overused elements like red, yellow, phoenix’s and the seasonal rooster; this new market are seeking more authentic and modern representations of Chinese culture.

这一新市场正追求对中国文化更真实、更现代的表达,而不是过度使用红色、黄色、凤凰图案、以及应季的公鸡图案。

GIVENCHY 纪梵希春节礼盒

Armani 阿玛尼


Take Victoria Secret’s eponymous fashion show for instance which might we add, included a total of four Chinese models for the first time ever in its squad of heavenly Angels.

以维密时装秀为例,最新一次的维密时装秀首次请到四位中国模特担任维密天使。

The lingerie brand decided to send dragon-decorated supermodels down the runway – think Adirana Lima’s yellow stiletto boots or Kendall Jenner carrying blue phoenix wings on her back – and it quickly became the subject of online criticism.

这家内衣品牌决定把身穿龙形图案服装的模特派上T台,龙形图案出现在阿德瑞娜•利玛的黄色细高跟靴子上,肯达尔•詹娜则背上了蓝色的凤凰翅膀。这很快招致网络上的批评。

维密秀上的中国主题很尴尬,就连大表姐刘雯都走出了红高粱模特队的效果。来,你们亲自感受下……

“Even the world’s most beautiful bodies are not going to save these rustic and passe Chinese-themed outfits,” wrote a Chinese web user on Sina Weibo, the country’s equivalent of Twitter.

一位中国网友在新浪微博上写道:“即使是最美丽的模特也无法拯救这些土气过时的中国风服装”。

From Dior’s rooster bracelet to Calvin Klein’s red and gold unmentionables, luxury retailers’ New Year-themed products are leaving Chinese consumers disgruntled.

从迪奥的公鸡手链到CK的金红色内衣,奢侈品销售商的新年主题产品令中国消费者不满。

Dior 迪奥

CK


Talking of MCM’s rooster-embroidered bag, one person commented, “red, gold, and zodiac signs are symbols of Chinese New Year, but why do they believe we want to carry a bag with a zodiac animal all year round?”

在谈到MCM的公鸡绣花手袋时,有人这样评论说:“红色、金色和生肖图案是中国新年的象征,但他们为什么觉得我们想一年都拎着一个带有生肖图案的包包”?

MCM 2017春夏系列的画风真是一言难尽,尤其是这款鸡年限定版挂饰,能做到每一个颜色都这么土,也是实属不易。

制造皮具出名的德国品牌MCM,这次把公鸡套在了太阳眼镜身上。把两个单品分开看。还是很能激起人购买的欲望的。

只是当公鸡和太阳眼镜合体后,事情就变味了,感觉是从村里出来的姑娘,用力过猛告诉别人“我最fashion”。

Other offerings include cosmetics giant Estee Lauder which has designed a golden rooster on its limited edition powder compact, while Dolce & Gabbana is offering up a five sequined Rooster bomber jacket for a mere £1450.

化妆品巨头雅诗兰黛推出限量版粉饼,盒子上设计了一个金色公鸡的图案。杜嘉班纳推出一款短夹克,上面有五只有金属片装饰的公鸡,售价仅为1450英镑。

雅诗兰黛的大红金属鸡,就连尾巴上都blingbling的闪着钻。

杜嘉班纳公鸡外套,霸气外露的外套,硕大的公鸡,这气势回家过年一定大杀四方!

杜嘉班纳鸡年T恤,怪异的颜色搭配,只有彭于晏,张震这种大帅哥才撑得起来吧。

神奇生活用品的乱入瞬间没了脾气,搞不明白需求量不高而且很耐用的瑞士军刀为什么要限量8888枚……


Sure, the Chinese market is becoming increasingly more sophisticated but, the ability for these brands to seamlessly and elegantly integrate authentic Chinese elements into their designs is another factor to consider.

当然,中国市场正变得越来越复杂,但这些大牌完美优雅地将真正的中国元素融入设计的能力是另外一个要考虑的因素。

For some, it just doesn’t add up and consumers are refusing to invest in products that aren’t consistent with the brands aesthetic. One prime example is Longchamp’s handbag which features a red and gold embroidered rooster. It’s off brand and out of taste.

对一些人来说,这并不会加分,消费者拒绝购买与品牌审美风格不同的产品。一个著名的例子是龙骧的手袋,上面有只金红色的绣花公鸡。这和品牌风格相去甚远,非常没品。

一位自称是此品牌忠实粉丝的用户说她简直不敢相信这一款包出自龙骧设计师之手。

The style of young Chinese fashionistas has evidently evolved and, while luxury retailers will continue to cash in on this special occasion, they can’t ignore the social media backlash that many of these products have faced.

年轻的中国时尚达人们的风格显然在不断变化。尽管奢侈品经销商将继续借机发财,他们仍不能忽视很多商品面对的社交媒体抨击。

当然还有一些大牌产品,不仅没有收到消费者的吐槽,还让人不禁点赞,也来一起感受下:

最大的惊喜来自于LV, 该品牌的鸟佩饰钱包系列在中国消费者中大受好评。虽然这个品牌并没有说明该产品是为了春节而生产设计,而且这个鸟设计看起来更像一只猫头鹰,很多网友都说这个产品特别适合送礼。一位网友表明:“我女朋友想要我买个给她作为礼物,她特喜欢这个可爱的设计。”

Source: yaning from language.chinadaily.com.cn

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