TEN years after her college graduation, Lin Zihan cannily named her 2004 Spring/Summer fashion line Puzzled.

But instead of puzzlement, the runway show aired her sure hand with mix-and-match in a middle land between the classic and trendy, and reason and passion.

The gentlest image is that of a Chinese woman with a beatific smile and a gentle gossamer glance, lowering her head and listening to ancient Buddhist tones. This mystery woman comes from a faraway, mysterious place and both puzzles and attracts all who see her.

That alluring image is Lin's inspiration for her new collection, which concentrates on magnificent, elaborate details and gentle elegance within.

Lin's signature --- elaborately pieced tailoring softened with delicate lingerie inserts --- was never compromised. Mixing neutral shades with feminine details of fringes and embroidery, or graceful tulle outside sexy lace lingerie, the designer brought on an endless parade of airy nothings in her fetish fabric, one made lighter still with the raw, unfinished edges she celebrates. Her seemingly paradoxical style ends with an unusual unity.

Draping skirt layers in bright orange, ivory and cocoa shades morphed together with a skintight lingerie top, a sleeveless dress is lusciously adorned with handmade lace at the waist.

Outside a pale rose corset, the slight yellow tulle minidress draping from the shoulders brings the look of a naughty angel, with its unfinished layers of narrowly pleated skirts reaching only the thighs. The cocoa color lace stockings add a coquettish appeal.

The deep plunge in the front of a pale chartreuse dress shows a bit of the pretty lace and bead lingerie inside, while the dress itself reminds one of a Greek goddess with its excessive drapes down the waist and one sleeve.

Besides strings of agate beads around the neck, a traditional Chinese-style white bellyband made of hand-knit lace and beads becomes the most charming accessory. It can nicely girdle the waist or, when tied at the back, hang from the neck with fringes swaying to the knees.

Editor: Wings