SINCE its opening seven years ago Casablanca has earned the reputation as the best Western restaurant in Shenzhen, although owner Michele Leger will boast that it's the best in southern China. She is probably right.

Casablanca, in Shekou, exudes class and elegance. The cuisine is as good as anything I have ever tasted in China or back home in Sydney. The staff are discrete, well trained and attentive. In short I had a magic dining experience and highly recommend Casablanca to anyone who loves fine dining.

The first thing that struck me about the restaurant is its wonderful atmosphere. The buzz of conversation, chic music and Casablanca-inspired decor set the tone of a restaurant that is supremely confident in satisfying the most discerning diner.

Leger opened the restaurant after moving from Hong Kong seven years ago. At the time most said she was crazy, but now it seems that she made the right decision. Of course it was not all smooth sailing.

She had to train her chef Jack to prepare a variety of Western dishes and, as a chef herself, Leger is also sometimes compelled to return to the kitchen when things get too busy. She still holds meetings twice a week with her staff to make sure they are delivering quality service.

Leger is constantly updating her menu to keep up with the demands of her clientele. The menu has a distinctly French feel to it. I was impressed with the wide selection from the grill and the great selection of main courses. Pricing for the main course ranges from 75 yuan to 125 yuan, and it's a great value when compared with the exceptional cuisine.

On the night we dined on duck foie gras, Jack did such a fantastic job preparing it that it felt like a shame to eat it. However I'm glad I did because the port wine grape relish really was divine. Next up was the fillet mignon which was a complete treat with every bite.

For me though, the two standout dishes were the gumbo and, in particular, the cod fillet.

Gumbo is an American Cajun dish, served with shrimp and sausages and a variety of exquisite spices. The flavor is wonderful, but not overpowering. It has a subtlety that only comes with years of experience. The cod fillet was heaven on a plate. It came with a "secret" Casablanca sauce and left me craving more.

I was also impressed with the variety of the wine list. Leger recommends the Georges Duboeuf and I was particularly interested in a Chilean wine called Casee de Marquis which has recently been introduced and is already a big hit.

Like the Rick's cafe in the film Casablanca, Casablanca oozes with style, romance and has an undeniably fashionable atmosphere. I used to go to Hong Kong to get an authentic Western dining experience, now I just have to go to Casablanca.

Editor: Wings